Peterborough & the Kawarthas: Water World

‘Land of Shining Waters’, the aboriginal meaning of Kawartha, aptly describes this region of gleaming lakes, lustrous rivers and iridescent streams. The area is situated close enough to Toronto for a quick getaway, yet far enough to escape the urban crunch. Gently rolling hills and flatlands support thick oak and pine forests, flourishing farmland, and inhabited marshes. Inviting villages and towns are scattered throughout the Kawarthas, yet a touch of city verve exists in the core of this tranquility with the City of Peterborough. Culture, stunning scenery and recreational options abound. Take a magical tour of the Kawarthas and see what has been achieved by nature and enhanced by man.

LOCATION

The Kawarthas is located approximately one hour east of Toronto by vehicle. The area does not have any specific borders – the name refers more to a series of over 50 lakes in the vicinity. The County of Peterborough and the City of Kawartha Lakes (actually another county) comprise the area. The more prominent municipalities include: Lindsay, which is closest to Toronto; the City of Peterborough, on the southeast side; Fenelon Falls and Bobcaygeon, both in the north.

HISTORY

Human habitation in the Kawarthas dates to approximately 900 BC. Evidence of their existence is found near Burleigh Falls, where First Nations people carved petroglyphs. Burial mounds, dating back 2,000 years, have also been discovered near Rice Lake.

Aboriginals were among the first people to use the extensive waterways as a canoe highway, portaging over rapids that now have more convenient interchanges in place. The first European explorer to travel through the area is assumed to be Samuel Champlain, who forged the area in the early 1600s. He described the area as rich, with beautiful lakes and excellent fishing.

By the early 1800s, the Kawarthas was recognized as having fertile land and an agreeable growing season. Thus, the government promoted assisted land grants for new immigrants in order to clear forests and strengthen agriculture. The largest influx of immigrants arrived in 1825, when over 2,000 Irish settlers flocked to the Peterborough area. The wild country and harsh Canadian winter proved too much for some, resulting in numerous deaths. However, many persevered and further generations of these families still thrive in the area.

Because of the area’s plentiful forests, lumbering became a popular industry. Inadequate transportation routes thwarted industry growth, however, and by the mid-1800s, it became clear that if any industry were to sustain growth, the area would need a continuous, and highly accessible water passage. Development of the Trent-Severn Waterway, which linked rivers and lakes by the use of locks, began in 1833 in Bobcaygeon. Several factors slowed the process, including the First World War. The waterway was finally completed in 1920. Now an integral part of the waters in the Kawarthas, the Trent-Severn Waterway, which runs 386 km (340 mi) from Lake Ontario to the Georgian Bay, links numerous water systems in the area and opened it to shipping and eventually tourism. The waterway enters the Kawarthas at Rice Lake, in the south, and proceeds on after Lake Balsam, slightly west of Fenelon Falls. During the summer, the waters swell with houseboats, pleasure crafts, and, at times, sailing regattas. Those travelling by water may dock at one of the many marinas located at the locks. For non-sailors, a lock can be described as a water elevator for boats, as they assist in raising or lowering boats into the various water paths.

	A section of the Trent-Severn Waterway Photo Courtesy of Christina Loeffel

Between 1870 and 1890, the Kawarthas experienced ‘the golden age of resorts’. Steamboat travel had opened up the area to tourism. Vacationers were transported via these vessels to see and be seen at what was advertised as “The Bright Waters and Happy Lands”. Swimming, or otherwise exerting oneself, was frowned upon – the shores were filled with people in formal attire, picnicking, watching sailing regattas and using parasols to provide shade from the hot Kawartha sun. Resorts were built to shelter these tranquility seekers. With the development of roads, the Kawarthas became accessible in any season resulting in a further influx of tourists.

CLIMATE

The climate in the Kawarthas is typical of Southeastern Ontario: fairly moderate with hot summers and mild winters. The hottest month is ordinarily July, when temperatures average in the high 20s C (70 F). January is typically the coldest month, with lows averaging –8 C (45 F). August and September tend to be the rainiest months, and the snow is at its highest levels during the months of February and March.

TRANSPORTATION

Visitors wishing to travel throughout the region have many options. Touring by vehicle offers the most flexibility and the ability to visit even the most remote areas. It also offers visitors the opportunity to explore the area as hurriedly or leisurely as they wish. Rental vehicles can be obtained in any of the more prominent towns. Trains are not routed through the Kawarthas, but buses travel regularly throughout the towns and connect with other cities. Peterborough has a public transit system in place, and a water taxi operates throughout the summer months to take people to various docks around Little Lake, near downtown.

COOL, CLEAR WATER

A major draw to the Kawarthas is its number and variety of lakes, which are fed by Lake Ontario and various other rivers. The lakes and rivers, ranging from as shallow as one metre (three feet) to as deep as 24 m (80 ft), are stockpiled with fish – making it an angling hotspot. Rice Lake, situated south of Peterborough, is particularly popular. The lake hails its name from the wild rice that once grew on its shores. Harvested centuries ago by the Mississauga Aboriginals, these plants are sparse today due to the changing water levels. The water, only three metres (10 ft.) deep, contains a surprising variety of game fish. The low water level also supports marsh grasses that make for intriguing canoe trips. Other prime fishing lakes in the Kawarthas include Buckhorn, Chemong, Pigeon and Stoney.

The Otonabee River, which is linked to the Trent-Severn Waterway, runs through Peterborough, from Katchiwanooka Lake in the north to Rice Lake in the south. Rather short in length, only 55km (34mi), Otonabee is popular for rowing and canoeing as the scenery at the banks varies from limestone to cedar trees. The Otonabee River Trail won the National Honour Award in 2002 for exemplary work done by Canadian landscape architects, and is a worthwhile ramble when in Peterborough.

ACCOMMODATIONS

For those travelling by boat, several locks in the Kawarthas allow overnight docking . Because this area is high in boat traffic, most stays are limited to only one night. Five-star resorts dot the area, many with lovely and challenging golf courses. The most favoured accommodations are cottages and, as such, a great selection lines area lakes.

View from the Peterborough Liftlock Photo Courtesy of Christina Loeffel

MUNICIPALITIES

Peterborough

Peterborough is home to approximately 73,000 people and is located only 1.5 hours northeast of Toronto. Offering all the conveniences one would expect of a city, Peterborough has the personality of a small town, which accounts for its diverse character. The neighbourhood store thrives, as does the ubiquitous mall. City residents wave to one another when passing on the street, giving Peterborough a charming familiarity, yet Trent University students add to the eclectic flavour of the population. The tree-lined streets surrounding the city’s core accommodate some lovely brick homes, some with welcoming verandas.

Attractions

The city’s biggest claim to fame, the Peterborough Lift Lock, is the world’s largest hydraulic lock. This engineering marvel heaves boats floating in 1,040 cubic metres (228.093 gallons) of water up and down 20 m (65 ft), the approximate height of a seven-story building. Traffic at this water elevator is high during July and August, as this is a key pass for pleasure boaters travelling the Trent-Severn Waterway to the Georgian Bay or one of the many lakes in the area.

Another water-related attraction, The Canadian Canoe Museum houses the largest collection of canoes and kayaks in the world. Of interest is the voyageur display, which commemorates the lifestyle of legendary rovers who utilized vessels that became known as the original carriages of Canada.

The Art Gallery of Peterborough holds an impressive display consisting of over 1,000 pieces of visual art from Canadian and European artists. The collection includes paintings, drawings, sculptures and photographs. Culture buffs should also keep an eye out for the Market Hall Performing Arts Centre, located downtown, below the landmark Town Clock. This venue hosts many stage, concert and dance productions, and is available for conferences and social functions.

While exploring downtown Peterborough, visitors can peruse hundreds of shops on George Street. In 1884, this street was the first in Canada to be illuminated with electric streetlights – ergo Peterborough’s nickname ‘the electric city’. Retail items range from home décor, used books and CDs, to sporting goods and fashionable clothes. George Street runs about four km (2.5 mi) from the Civic Hall in the north, to just south of Del Crary Park.

Both tourists and locals alike can enjoy relaxing at Del Crary Park, a small green space with lovely weeping willow trees and lush grass. This park is situated on the shore of Little Lake, home to Centennial Fountain, the highest jet spray of water in Canada at 76 m (250 ft). Each evening throughout May to September, lights dance and dart in the spray. Del Crary Park is home to many events and festivals throughout the year. Of note is the Festival of Lights, a lively summer-long music festival that entertains thousands at no cost. Each Wednesday and Saturday night is filled with song, ending with a lighted boat parade and fireworks.

	A Quiet Spot in Del Crary Park Photo Courtesy of Christina Loeffel

Day Trips from Peterborough

South of Peterborough, near Rice Lake, is Serpent Mounds Park. Over 2,000 years ago the Point Peninsula Aboriginal people camped in the area during the summer months, leaving behind nine burial mounds. Thought to be of spiritual significance, the largest mound, which bears a zigzag or serpentine appearance, is the only one of its kind in Canada. Today, Hiawatha First Nations people share this park with visitors on a day trip or overnight camping basis.

Slimy, shiny and downright scary, the cold-blooded residents of the Indian River Reptile Zoo will have visitors of all ages writhing and squirming. The zoo is located 16 km (10mi) east of Peterborough and contains an extensive collection consisting of over 200 reptiles.

The Curve Lake Pow Wow, which takes place at the end of each summer, celebrates the unique culture of aboriginal communities. Held on the Curve Lake Indian Reserve, north of Peterborough, visitors can observe dancing, often including an exhibition by those wearing traditional jingle dresses. Drumming and singing, using vocables (utterances focused on form rather than meaning) to replace words, is also a regular occurrence. All ages are welcome, but a respectful attitude is expected and interruptions of the proceedings unwanted. The Whetung Ojibwa Centre, open year-round, features an arts and crafts gallery that offers hand-made native crafts, t-shirts and other souvenir items.

Get set for a hoedown, Canadian style, east of Peterborough at the Havelock Country Jamboree. This yearly festival in August boasts award-winning songsters from Nashville and Canada. Weekend camping (over 4000 tent and trailer sites) is available for families as well as sites for ‘late-night campers’ who don’t want to miss a single minute of the festivities by sleeping.

Lindsay

Known as the gateway to the Kawarthas, Lindsay is located about 40 km (25 mi) west of Peterborough. Lindsay has more than 16,000 residents, over 40 parks and is known for having one of the widest main streets in Ontario. Historic Academy Theatre, the oldest live theatre venue in Ontario, has felt the footsteps of many of Canada’s entertainment greats on its stage, including the comedy duo Wayne and Schuster and singer Tommy Hunter. It offers several productions by a variety of groups throughout the year, special guest concerts and an enjoyable summer theatre.

Throngs of people celebrate summer at the annual Lindsay River Festival. Events have included a tractor pull, demolition derby and concerts. An outdoor vendors’ market, featuring numerous merchandise, as well as a family focused midway, are main attractions at the festival.

Lakefield

The village of Lakefield, located 15 minutes north of Peterborough, is surrounded by great wildlife spotting, boating and hiking. Travel 38 km (24 mi) northeast of Lakefield to experience Petroglyphs Provincial Park. This park contains the largest number of aboriginal rock carvings (over 900) in North America. The spiritually significant chiselled designs – including turtles, humans and snakes – were created 600 to 1,100 years ago. An excursion to the petroglyphs, the informative interpretive centre, and the surrounding ecosystem, is highly recommended.

Historic Town Clock in Downtown Peterborough Photo Courtesy of Christina Loeffel

Bobcaygeon

Located 59 km (37 mi) northwest of Peterborough, Bobcaygeon originates from the Indian word Bobcaygewanunk, meaning ‘shallow rapids’. The town is actually built on three islands, joined by seven bridges. Bobcaygeon has the honour of being the first community to have a lock built for the Trent-Severn Waterway. The layers of grey limestone, as well as the rivers and lakes around Bobcaygeon, are stunning, and therefore, quite appealing to pleasure boaters.

Travel back in time to the Kawarthas Settlers Village, offering a glimpse into the area’s history. A number of original homes and dwellings, occupied by the area’s first settlers, are displayed here along with an extensive collection of artifacts dating from 1830 to 1915.

Cruising down narrow, tree-lined, mud-covered trails is a dream – or so a driver would attest at the annual Jeep Jamboree. Two weekends in July are set-aside for these dirt assailants as they ride their Jeeps through a path from Bobcaygeon to Buckhorn.

Fenelon Falls

The major draw to this sleepy village west of Bobcaygeon would have to be its namesake: Fenelon Falls. Falling seven metres (23 ft.) into a limestone gorge, the thunder of the waters can be heard throughout the community. At night the falls are illuminated, resulting in a dream-like scene.

The sound of whirling bicycle pedals is familiar along the Victoria Recreation Corridor. This old CN Rail path extends from Fenlon Falls, north to Kinmount, and south to Lindsay. Some of the trail appears untouched by man, which makes it all the more surreal. Cross-country skiing, hiking, horseback riding and snowshoeing are other activities that can be done on the trail.