‘Land of Shining Waters’,
the aboriginal meaning of Kawartha, aptly describes this region of gleaming
lakes, lustrous rivers and iridescent streams. The area is situated close enough
to Toronto for a quick
getaway, yet far enough to escape the urban crunch. Gently rolling hills and
flatlands support thick oak and pine forests, flourishing farmland, and inhabited
marshes. Inviting villages and towns are scattered throughout the Kawarthas,
yet a touch of city verve exists in the core of this tranquility with the City
of Peterborough.
Culture, stunning scenery and recreational options abound. Take a magical tour
of the Kawarthas and see what has been achieved by nature and enhanced by man.
LOCATION
The Kawarthas is located
approximately one hour east of Toronto by vehicle. The area does not have any
specific borders – the name refers more to a series of over 50 lakes in the
vicinity. The County of Peterborough and the City of Kawartha Lakes (actually
another county) comprise the area. The more prominent municipalities include:
Lindsay,
which is closest to Toronto; the City of Peterborough,
on the southeast side; Fenelon
Falls and Bobcaygeon,
both in the north.
HISTORY
Human habitation in the
Kawarthas dates to approximately 900 BC. Evidence of their existence is found
near Burleigh
Falls, where First Nations people carved petroglyphs. Burial mounds,
dating back 2,000 years, have also been discovered near Rice Lake.
Aboriginals were among the
first people to use the extensive waterways as a canoe highway, portaging over
rapids that now have more convenient interchanges in place. The first European
explorer to travel through the area is assumed to be Samuel Champlain, who forged
the area in the early 1600s. He described the area as rich, with beautiful lakes
and excellent fishing.
By the early 1800s, the
Kawarthas was recognized as having fertile land and an agreeable growing season.
Thus, the government promoted assisted land grants for new immigrants in order
to clear forests and strengthen agriculture. The largest influx of immigrants
arrived in 1825, when over 2,000 Irish settlers flocked to the Peterborough
area. The wild country and harsh Canadian winter proved too much for some, resulting
in numerous deaths. However, many persevered and further generations of these
families still thrive in the area.
Because of the area’s plentiful
forests, lumbering became a popular industry. Inadequate transportation routes
thwarted industry growth, however, and by the mid-1800s, it became clear that
if any industry were to sustain growth, the area would need a continuous, and
highly accessible water passage. Development of the Trent-Severn
Waterway, which linked rivers and lakes by the use of locks, began in
1833 in Bobcaygeon. Several factors slowed the process, including the First
World War. The waterway was finally completed in 1920. Now an integral part
of the waters in the Kawarthas, the Trent-Severn Waterway, which runs 386 km
(340 mi) from Lake Ontario to the Georgian Bay, links numerous water systems
in the area and opened it to shipping and eventually tourism. The waterway enters
the Kawarthas at Rice Lake, in the south, and proceeds on after Lake Balsam,
slightly west of Fenelon Falls. During the summer, the waters swell with houseboats,
pleasure crafts, and, at times, sailing regattas. Those travelling by water
may dock at one of the many marinas
located at the locks. For non-sailors, a lock can be described as a water elevator
for boats, as they assist in raising or lowering boats into the various water
paths.
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A
section of the Trent-Severn Waterway
Photo Courtesy of Christina Loeffel |
Between 1870 and 1890, the
Kawarthas experienced ‘the golden age of resorts’. Steamboat travel had opened
up the area to tourism. Vacationers were transported via these vessels to see
and be seen at what was advertised as “The Bright Waters and Happy Lands”. Swimming,
or otherwise exerting oneself, was frowned upon – the shores were filled with
people in formal attire, picnicking, watching sailing regattas and using parasols
to provide shade from the hot Kawartha sun. Resorts were built to shelter these
tranquility seekers. With the development of roads, the Kawarthas became accessible
in any season resulting in a further influx of tourists.
CLIMATE
The climate in the Kawarthas
is typical of Southeastern
Ontario: fairly moderate with hot summers and mild winters. The hottest
month is ordinarily July, when temperatures average in the high 20s C (70 F).
January is typically the coldest month, with lows averaging –8 C (45 F). August
and September tend to be the rainiest months, and the snow is at its highest
levels during the months of February and March.
TRANSPORTATION
Visitors wishing to travel
throughout the region have many options. Touring by vehicle offers the most
flexibility and the ability to visit even the most remote areas. It also offers
visitors the opportunity to explore the area as hurriedly or leisurely as they
wish. Rental vehicles can be obtained in any of the more prominent towns. Trains
are not routed through the Kawarthas, but buses travel regularly throughout
the towns and connect with other cities. Peterborough has a public transit system
in place, and a water taxi operates throughout the summer months to take people
to various docks around Little Lake, near downtown.
COOL, CLEAR WATER
A major draw to the Kawarthas
is its number and variety of lakes, which are fed by Lake Ontario and various
other rivers. The lakes and rivers, ranging from as shallow as one metre (three
feet) to as deep as 24 m (80 ft), are stockpiled with fish – making it an angling
hotspot. Rice
Lake, situated south of Peterborough, is particularly popular. The lake
hails its name from the wild rice that once grew on its shores. Harvested centuries
ago by the Mississauga Aboriginals, these plants are sparse today due to the
changing water levels. The water, only three metres (10 ft.) deep, contains
a surprising variety of game fish. The low water level also supports marsh grasses
that make for intriguing canoe trips. Other prime fishing lakes in the Kawarthas
include Buckhorn,
Chemong,
Pigeon
and Stoney.
The Otonabee
River, which is linked to the Trent-Severn Waterway, runs through Peterborough,
from Katchiwanooka Lake in the north to Rice Lake in the south. Rather short
in length, only 55km (34mi), Otonabee is popular for rowing and canoeing as
the scenery at the banks varies from limestone to cedar trees. The Otonabee
River Trail won the National Honour Award in 2002 for exemplary work
done by Canadian landscape architects, and is a worthwhile ramble when in Peterborough.
ACCOMMODATIONS
For those travelling by
boat, several locks in the Kawarthas allow overnight docking . Because this area
is high in boat traffic, most stays are limited to only one night. Five-star
resorts dot the area, many with lovely and challenging golf courses. The most
favoured accommodations are cottages and, as such, a great selection lines area
lakes.
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View
from the Peterborough Liftlock
Photo Courtesy of Christina Loeffel
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MUNICIPALITIES
Peterborough
Peterborough
is home to approximately 73,000 people and is located only 1.5 hours northeast
of Toronto. Offering all the conveniences one would expect of a city, Peterborough
has the personality of a small town, which accounts for its diverse character.
The neighbourhood store thrives, as does the ubiquitous mall. City residents
wave to one another when passing on the street, giving Peterborough a charming
familiarity, yet Trent
University students add to the eclectic flavour of the population. The
tree-lined streets surrounding the city’s core accommodate some lovely brick
homes, some with welcoming verandas.
Attractions
The city’s biggest claim
to fame, the Peterborough Lift Lock, is the world’s largest hydraulic lock. This
engineering marvel heaves boats floating in 1,040 cubic metres (228.093 gallons)
of water up and down 20 m (65 ft), the approximate height of a seven-story building.
Traffic at this water elevator is high during July and August, as this is a
key pass for pleasure boaters travelling the Trent-Severn Waterway to the Georgian
Bay or one of the many lakes in the area.
Another water-related attraction,
The Canadian
Canoe Museum houses the largest collection of canoes and kayaks in the
world. Of interest is the voyageur display, which commemorates the lifestyle
of legendary rovers who utilized vessels that became known as the original carriages
of Canada.
The
Art Gallery of Peterborough holds an impressive display consisting of
over 1,000 pieces of visual art from Canadian and European artists. The collection
includes paintings, drawings, sculptures and photographs. Culture buffs should
also keep an eye out for the Market
Hall Performing Arts Centre, located downtown, below the landmark Town
Clock. This venue hosts many stage, concert and dance productions, and is available
for conferences and social functions.
While exploring downtown
Peterborough, visitors can peruse hundreds of shops on George Street. In 1884,
this street was the first in Canada to be illuminated with electric streetlights
– ergo Peterborough’s nickname ‘the electric city’. Retail items range from
home décor, used books and CDs, to sporting goods and fashionable clothes. George
Street runs about four km (2.5 mi) from the Civic Hall in the north, to just
south of Del Crary Park.
Both tourists and locals
alike can enjoy relaxing at Del Crary Park, a small green space with lovely weeping willow trees and
lush grass. This park is situated on the shore of Little Lake, home to Centennial
Fountain, the highest jet spray of water in Canada at 76 m (250 ft). Each evening
throughout May to September, lights dance and dart in the spray. Del Crary Park
is home to many events and festivals throughout the year. Of note is the Festival
of Lights, a lively summer-long music festival that entertains thousands at
no cost. Each Wednesday and Saturday night is filled with song, ending with
a lighted boat parade and fireworks.
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A
Quiet Spot in Del Crary Park
Photo Courtesy of Christina Loeffel |
Day Trips from Peterborough
South of Peterborough, near
Rice
Lake, is Serpent
Mounds Park. Over 2,000 years ago the Point Peninsula Aboriginal people
camped in the area during the summer months, leaving behind nine burial mounds.
Thought to be of spiritual significance, the largest mound, which bears a zigzag
or serpentine appearance, is the only one of its kind in Canada. Today, Hiawatha
First Nations people share this park with visitors on a day trip or overnight
camping basis.
Slimy, shiny and downright
scary, the cold-blooded residents of the Indian
River Reptile Zoo will have visitors of all ages writhing and squirming.
The zoo is located 16 km (10mi) east of Peterborough and contains an extensive
collection consisting of over 200 reptiles.
The Curve
Lake Pow Wow, which takes place at the end of each summer, celebrates
the unique culture of aboriginal communities. Held on the Curve Lake Indian
Reserve, north of Peterborough, visitors can observe dancing, often including
an exhibition by those wearing traditional jingle dresses. Drumming and singing,
using vocables (utterances focused on form rather than meaning) to replace words,
is also a regular occurrence. All ages are welcome, but a respectful attitude
is expected and interruptions of the proceedings unwanted. The Whetung Ojibwa
Centre, open year-round, features an arts and crafts gallery that offers hand-made
native crafts, t-shirts and other souvenir items.
Get set for a hoedown, Canadian
style, east of Peterborough at the Havelock
Country Jamboree. This yearly festival in August boasts award-winning
songsters from Nashville and Canada. Weekend camping (over 4000 tent and trailer
sites) is available for families as well as sites for ‘late-night campers’ who
don’t want to miss a single minute of the festivities by sleeping.
Lindsay
Known as the gateway to
the Kawarthas, Lindsay is located about 40 km (25 mi) west of Peterborough.
Lindsay has more than 16,000 residents, over 40 parks and is known for having
one of the widest main streets in Ontario. Historic Academy
Theatre, the oldest live theatre venue in Ontario, has felt the footsteps
of many of Canada’s entertainment greats on its stage, including the comedy
duo Wayne and Schuster and singer Tommy Hunter. It offers several productions
by a variety of groups throughout the year, special guest concerts and an enjoyable
summer theatre.
Throngs of people celebrate
summer at the annual Lindsay
River Festival. Events have included a tractor pull, demolition derby
and concerts. An outdoor vendors’ market, featuring numerous merchandise, as
well as a family focused midway, are main attractions at the festival.
Lakefield
The village of Lakefield,
located 15 minutes north of Peterborough, is surrounded by great wildlife spotting,
boating and hiking. Travel 38 km (24 mi) northeast of Lakefield to experience
Petroglyphs Provincial Park. This park contains the largest number
of aboriginal rock carvings (over 900) in North America. The spiritually significant
chiselled designs – including turtles, humans and snakes – were created 600
to 1,100 years ago. An excursion to the petroglyphs, the informative interpretive
centre, and the surrounding ecosystem, is highly recommended.
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Historic
Town Clock in Downtown Peterborough
Photo Courtesy of Christina Loeffel |
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Bobcaygeon
Located 59 km (37 mi) northwest
of Peterborough, Bobcaygeon
originates from the Indian word Bobcaygewanunk, meaning ‘shallow rapids’. The
town is actually built on three islands, joined by seven bridges. Bobcaygeon
has the honour of being the first community to have a lock built for the Trent-Severn
Waterway. The layers of grey limestone, as well as the rivers and lakes around
Bobcaygeon, are stunning, and therefore, quite appealing to pleasure boaters.
Travel back in time to the
Kawarthas
Settlers Village, offering a glimpse into the area’s history. A number
of original homes and dwellings, occupied by the area’s first settlers, are
displayed here along with an extensive collection of artifacts dating from 1830
to 1915.
Cruising down narrow, tree-lined,
mud-covered trails is a dream – or so a driver would attest at the annual Jeep
Jamboree. Two weekends in July are set-aside for these dirt assailants
as they ride their Jeeps through a path from Bobcaygeon to Buckhorn.
Fenelon Falls
The major draw to this sleepy
village west of Bobcaygeon would have to be its namesake: Fenelon
Falls. Falling seven metres (23 ft.) into a limestone gorge, the thunder
of the waters can be heard throughout the community. At night the falls are
illuminated, resulting in a dream-like scene.
The sound of whirling bicycle
pedals is familiar along the Victoria
Recreation Corridor. This old CN Rail path extends from Fenlon Falls,
north to Kinmount,
and south to Lindsay. Some of the trail appears untouched by man, which makes
it all the more surreal. Cross-country skiing, hiking, horseback riding and
snowshoeing are other activities that can be done on the trail.
